A fashion portrait: Kathryn

The search for perfection.

Multi-talented and blessed with a breadth of interests, Kathryn can't be pinned down easily. She has traveled extensively out of her native Australia, is equally at home in London, San Francisco and now Brussels, combines the analytical mind of a trained lawyer (King's college London University and a PhD at Cambridge University) and the artistic delicacy of the true aesthete. Currently sourcing art, textiles and design objects for interior projects, she has worked on the Meta for Mallett project of contemporary collectibles, with a contemporary art gallery in San Francisco and produced her own design label "Bloom" as well as photography and printmaking.

Fine grey polo neck with extra long sleeves: Isabel Marant. Steel wire wrapped necklace: Colette, Paris.

All the pictures in this fashion portrait are from Arno (http://www.arno-image.com/)

The unifying principle in all Kathryn approaches is her search for perfection. This is after all, a woman who took, not weeks or months, but years to research the fabric to re-cover well-loved armchairs! Such a demanding approach is completed by her ability to turn around other projects at record speed, in particular if they draw on her superior writing skills and analytical mind. She is now channeling her considerable talents in a joint project with her equally impressive husband in Brussels, where they are transforming a 1900 "maison de maitre" into what will undoubtedly be the most beautiful apartment-hotel in town. The 3 guest apartments and the attached gallery at 33 rue de Suisse will:  "show-case furniture and art that is rare (collectible), recent (prototypes and new designs) or re-issued (newly produced classics). Permanent fixtures in the maison will represent the work of notable designers and artists."

Her research skills, eye for perfection and curiosity come together in the way she dresses. Clothes are a source of creativity, self-creation and reflection. Shying away from well-known labels, she favours the out-of-the-way gem, the victorious find that makes a shopping trip worthwhile. Self-knowledge and exacting standards meet in beautiful outfits in unique combination that only she could dream up.

Mustard wool crepe skirt: Ann Valerie Hash. Burgundy jersey drape top: Ann Valerie Hash. Silk chiffon shibori wrap: Akira Isogawa, Sydney

Portrait in Arno's pictures and Kathryn's own words:

Arno snapped Kathryn during her latest stop in London. The photo shoot took place as we sipped Champagne whilst Kathryn took beautiful outfit after beautiful outfit from her suitcase. It felt like playing a grown-up version of the dressing up games I so enjoyed as a child. Kathryn gave us some background on each item of clothing and jewelry, shining some light on the mysterious alchemy at work in her unique elegance.

First childhood memory of clothes?
As a child I was absolutely captivated by my mother’s wardrobe and particularly her impressive collection of scarves and wraps – it was an Aladdin’s cave of sumptuous colour and texture. The scarves were in a set of drawers that I could quietly open and gaze upon, sometimes touch and unfold. Watching my mother dress for a party was always a treasured time – to be asked my opinion on the dress or shoes, to feel a part of the glamour and sense of occasion. To be left with a lipstick kiss as she departed and always welcomed in the morning with a little treat from the party – perhaps a chocolate or sliver of cake from the party – transported in a nest of napkins inside a beaded evening bag!

For my own clothes – I recall three very important dresses – perhaps a reason why I continue to love wearing dresses now. The first was an evening dress made for me by my mother’s dressmaker when I was about 6 years old and flower-girl at a debutante ball. The dress was ankle length, egg-shell blue silk velvet with three quarter length sleeves and a round neckline. The neckline and sleeves were trimmed with white ostrich feathers and I wore silk ballet slippers. My hair was coiled in ringlets and piled up with escaping tendrils. I thought it the most exquisite dress in the world, as well as the most thrilling evening – surrounded by the debutantes in their white gowns like the corps de ballet in Swan Lake. My mother was the Matron of Honour at the Ball and wore an orange shantung silk sheath dress with orange feather trim around the neck. She looked like a young Maria Callas. And my father looked like a knife-blade of elegance in his black dinner suit – very tall, very thin, with dramatic grey black hair.

Black corset skirt: Alexander McQueen. Scarlet and off-white ruffle shirt: Machiko Jinto, London. Ox-blood shoes: Yves St Laurent. Coral and bone necklace: artisan jewellery from Chile

First piece of clothing you bought with your own money?
I was passionate about the quality of clothing even from a very young age. There are two purchases that are prominent in my memory – I am not sure which came first but the contrast illustrates an early and continued fashion idiosyncrasy. One was a pair of Fiorucci jeans, the other a cream silk shirt with enormous balloon sleeves that draped to the cuff in a splendid luxurious abundance. Perhaps I wore them together with ballet flats…which is certainly how I would wear them now. I recall saying to my mother when I was about 13 years old that I wanted all my shirts to be silk and all my sweaters to be cashmere!

Violet wool trousers: J & M Davidson. Green silk chiffon shirt: Allegra Hicks. Grey ribbon belt with diamante buckle: Lanvin. Ox-blood shoes: Yves St Laurent. Black glass pendant: Baccarat

Fashion icon?
Two women have been enormously influential in my appreciation for the art of fashion. The first, my mother, is a woman of extraordinary elegance, taste and originality. The mother of 5 children, career woman, ceaseless community leader - and one of the most creative colourists in fashion I have ever known. Fortunately my mother has kept in beautiful condition many of her gowns from the 50”s, 60”s and 70”s – a fantastic timeline of fashion history. The angel-skin pink/beige linen sheath dress with wooden bead and raffia embroidery worn for her honeymoon; the poppy red silk chiffon paillette beaded dancing dress with layers of petticoats to swirl beneath the skirt, the full length cream evening gown with Marilyn Monroe pleated skirt. It is inspiring that my mother’s love for fashion – which really is one of the many ways in which she express her artistic sensibility – continues to be as original and refined as ever. For my sister’s wedding, a silver-grey silk couture ensemble, brilliantly cut on the bias as though Madeleine Vionnet herself had held the scissors. Worn with grey pearls and diamonds it was simply elegance unparalleled. It took my breath away when I saw her!

Swirl print silk dress: Penny Harrison couture, made for Kathryn's mother in fabric brought out of China in the 1970’s by her uncle. Black crocodile belt: Ralph Lauren

The other woman of influence for me was a couturier Penny Harrison. I was lucky enough to be able to work with Penny in my spare time when I was a teenager, and from her learned techniques of hand-detailing – hand made button holes, pintucking, shadow-work embroidery, hand covered buttons. Husky-voiced, tall, steel-grey hair always in an elegant pleat, slinking Saluki at her heals, Penny was an education in commitment to beauty in all things. Shortly before she died, Penny made by hand my daughter’s christening gown: a butterfly-fragile dress in white voile, stitched in pale silver-grey thread and shadow-worked with my daughter’s initials.

What counts and what does count with fashion/accessories (brand, quality, colour, fabric....)
I love the role of accessories in dressing as an opportunity to display an aesthetic choice, an eye for point and counterpoint, the exclamation mark in an outfit. Accessorising distinguishes the merely “well-dressed” from the original dresser. This kind of dressing is impossible to copy, totally original and captivating. It takes a refined eye to understand how to place accessories within the overall balance of an outfit – always and accent and never too much.

Mustard wool crepe skirt and Burgundy jersey drape top: Ann Valerie Hash. Silver grey and green silk shoes: Prada

Brand – is never enough of itself! I definitely don’t shop by brand – I am attracted to the quality of the fabric, the fit, finish and originality. Clothes have to feel good against the skin, and even in the case of every-day wear, should be a little “coup de foudre”.

How would you define your style?

“Studious of elegance and ease,

Myself alone I seek to please.”

Fables (1738) “The Man, The Cat, The Dog and the Fly, 1.127, John Gay, English poet and playwright, 1685-1732.

I hope for elegance and originality, and this comes from more than clothing. It is also a question of cast of mind and recognition of inherent form and posture. The elements I am drawn to in architecture and art - linear formality alleviated by subtle elements of glamour and whimsy - are found in microcosm in my fashion choices. There is a thread that connects the wider aesthetic to the personal.

Necklace: Georg Jensen

Is your choice of clothes changing as you are getting older?
I think I have become more confident and adventurous in fact! My 16 year old daughter is definitely helping me along here. Not to wear what she wears, but to make strong choices and to be more confident about my shape. It is great to see my daughter’s originality as a dresser and to take pleasure in the different stages and styles in our dressing. I am under a solemn oath, however, to keep absolutely all my clothes for my daughter to wear when she is older!

Morale boosting clothes?
COLOUR! It’s easy to wear uniform black – but really rather depressing! It takes energy to work out combinations of colour and pattern, but the process of putting it together transforms one’s mood from dark to light. Although I do wear elements of black and grey, I always add colour and play with scarves, wraps, belts and jewellery. I particularly love my chartreuse knit coat from J & M Davidson which never fails to be memorable and uplifting.

Amethyst necklace and ring: Tateossian

I would never wear...?
Cheap shoes! They are always poorly constructed and lack the subtleties of proportion that are possessed by beautifully made shoes. With the exception of Bensimon canvas plimsolls – inexpensive but a perfect expression of their type.

I can't leave the house without...?
My marriage rings – they never leave my hand.

Piece of clothing your can't bear to throw away although you should?
Oh dear – yes there are some of those. I find it very hard to throw anything away, believing that one day the perfect opportunity to wear it will arise. And of course the minute one throws something away it becomes just the thing one needs to complete an outfit! I have a stack of aged cashmere sweaters that I imagine will one day become gardening sweaters, trimmed with fanciful ribbons and Liberty print lining.

Favourite boutique/shop/brand/designer?
I love Dover Street Market – its such fun to visit and always full of inspiring and original pieces. In Antwerp recently I discovered Anja Austa whose work is origami-complex, feminine, beautifully detailed – each a piece of art. I also love Egg in London, hidden in a mews behind Kinnerton Street in Knightsbridge. I have some of the amazing knits of Daniela Gregis from Egg – pieces that can only be understood when they are on the body and can wrapped, pinned and tied in multiple ways.

Black silk chiffon tunic: Anja Austa, Antwerp. Coffee silk chiffon trousers: Tim O’Connor, Sydney

Black silk flower sandals: Miu Miu

Amongst my favourite designers – Etro and Dries van Noten as colour and pattern visionaries; Jil Sander for immaculate classics; Ann Valerie Hash for originality in a perfectly classical manner; APC for nostalgic sweetness and very wearable casual pieces; and Sofie d’Hoor for my all time favourite summer-dresses.

Comfort clothes?
I don’t really do “casual”… because I love dressing up...but comfort clothes are necessary for long-haul travel and yoga. I love the soft pure cotton jersey lounge wear from ME&EM in London. I also adore pyjamas – my favourite Frette pair sadly were worn to death and I am now a devotee of the nightwear from Olatz Schnabel in New York – divine colours for perfect masculine/feminine classic pyjamas and silk bias cut night dresses, beautiful enough to wear on a summer evening with delicate sandals.

When I am in the country and dress more casually I like to wear APC, Isabel Marant, See by Chloe and Margaret Howell. They all focus on good fabrics, pattern and colour and have a charm that references both the classic and the bohemian. It is important not to fall into the casual/comfort=sloppy dressing trap. Comfort and casual clothes are really an interpretation of my more formal style, but in a more robust and resilient form so that they can resist rain, mud and dogs! Three constants of the English countryside.

Grey wool narrow trousers: Prada. Fine grey polo neck with extra long sleeves: Isabel Marant. Steel grey flat lace-up shoes: Jil Sander. Grey ribbon belt: Lanvin. Steel wire wrapped necklace: Colette, Paris. Rutile quartz ring- Cartier

Tips from Kathryn:

• Not succumbing to the banality of the mainstream or unsuitable fashion “diktats”, viz, leggings and low slung jeans unless you are a teenager. Of these, Oscar Wilde aptly said: “A fashion is merely a form of ugliness so unbearable that we are compelled to alter it every six months.”
• Continuing to seek out the original and to find new combinations of old pieces
• Never wearing a “total look” by one designer – how unoriginal and safe. Enjoying the painterly possibilities of dressing – a fresh canvas each day to populate with forms, colours and patterns.
• Looking forward to becoming “Auntie Mame” crossed with the Duchess of Devonshire as I get older – clipping peonies in my vintage Chanel tweed and dressing because of the pleasure it gives to me!

Fashion advice

• Don’t work against your type in order to conform to a fashion that is popularized by those whose look, body and lifestyle are not yours. This is what I think of as the “Emperor’s New Clothes” trap.
• Be adventurous and playful, taking pleasure in creating a canvas in your clothing and giving pleasure to those who see you. Be prepared to stand out in a sea of black anonymity – particularly in the winter – and wear something that is a relief from the ordinary and merely practical.
• Seek out the unusual in markets and from little known designers so that you have elements to add emphasis to your wardrobe basics. 

To follow Kathryn's guest appartment and gallery development: http://www.curatedprojects.com/
To see more of Arno's photos: http://www.arno-image.com/